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Nexware.
Luxury handicrafts · 03

Patola, Muga
& Handloom Weaves

Patan Patola, Assam Muga and Kota Doria — small, protected, slow-output weaves where the commercial question is whether the supplier can make it at all, not what it costs.

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A weaver working at a traditional handloom in Pochampally, India
What we buy

What we buy in this line

  • Patan PatolaDouble ikat, resist-dyed on both warp and weft before weaving.
  • Single ikatFaster, far cheaper, and a legitimate product when described as what it is.
  • Assam MugaGolden wild silk, undyed, from a fibre produced nowhere else.
  • Kota DoriaFine square-check khat weave in cotton and silk.
  • Handloom fabricWoven to the metre for furnishing and apparel programmes.
  • Made-upsStoles, runners, cushions and panels finished from the same cloth.
Acceptance criteria

What we fix before the warp is tied

Hand-made goods are bought against an approved sample, not a drawing. That only works if what the sample is being judged on is written down before anyone starts.

Ikat typeSingle or double ikat stated plainly. Double ikat takes months and prices accordingly.
FibreMulberry, muga, tussar or cotton, with blend ratios where blended.
Khat countFor Kota Doria, the khat count that defines the grade.
Dye systemNatural or synthetic, with the fastness data for whichever is used.
Register toleranceIkat blur is inherent; the acceptable range is agreed on a sample.
Output rateRealistic metres per loom per month, so the delivery date is arithmetic.
GI provenanceWhere a GI claim is made, the documentation that supports it.

Every criterion above appears in the inspection report as a pass or a fail, with the measurement beside it. Where a criterion is a judgement rather than a number, the judgement is recorded against a retained physical sample.

Risk & compliance

What we screen before a sample is quoted

Single ikat sold as double

A large and easy margin for a dishonest supplier. Verified by examining the warp and weft resist on the goods, not by asking.

Printed cloth sold as ikat

Digitally printed imitation ikat is widespread and cheap.

Capacity fiction

These weaves are structurally low-output. An order accepted beyond real loom capacity gets quietly subcontracted or substituted.

Muga adulteration

Muga blended or dyed to imitate volume. Fibre tested where the price assumes pure muga.

Where this is made

Clusters we work for this line

PatanSualkuchiKotaPochampallyBhuj

Patan double ikat is made by a handful of families. Any programme built on it has to be planned around that reality rather than negotiated against it.

Related lines

The other hand-made skills

Pashmina & Fine ShawlsHand-made Banarasi & Silk BrocadeHand-made Kalamkari & Hand-Printed TextilesHand-made Chikankari & ZardoziHand-made Bidriware & DhokraHand-made Temple Bronze & BrasswareHand-made Meenakari, Thewa & KundanHand-made Jaipur Blue PotteryHand-made Pichwai, Tanjore & MiniatureHand-made Papier-Mâché, Lacquer & WoodHand-made Kashmiri Carpets & RugsHand-made

Send us the sample. We will tell you honestly.

Whether we can source it well in India, what it should cost, and what could go wrong — before you commit to anything.

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