Pashmina &
Fine Shawls
Kashmiri Pashmina, Kani and Jamawar — the category with the highest price per gram and the highest rate of misdescription in Indian craft. Everything here turns on proving the fibre.
What we buy in this line
- Pashmina shawlsCashmere from the Changthangi goat, hand-spun and handwoven.
- Kani shawlsTwill-tapestry woven on the kani technique, the slowest weave in the category.
- JamawarDensely patterned loom-woven shawls, plain-field through to full-jamawar.
- Sozni and needleworkFine needle embroidery applied to a woven ground.
- Stoles and wrapsLighter weights for retail programmes rather than one-off pieces.
- BlendsPashmina–silk and wool blends, declared as blends and priced as blends.
What we fix before a shawl is woven
Hand-made goods are bought against an approved sample, not a drawing. That only works if what the sample is being judged on is written down before anyone starts.
Every criterion above appears in the inspection report as a pass or a fail, with the measurement beside it. Where a criterion is a judgement rather than a number, the judgement is recorded against a retained physical sample.
What we screen before a sample is quoted
Fibre substitution
This is the defining fraud of the category. Viscose, merino and nylon are routinely sold as pashmina, and the difference is invisible to the eye and to the hand. We test the fibre in a laboratory before a price is agreed, on every new supplier.
Shahtoosh
Shahtoosh comes from the endangered Tibetan antelope, is banned under CITES, and importing it into the US is a federal offence. Any supplier who offers it is removed from consideration on the spot, for every other line as well.
Mislabelling exposure
US fibre-content labelling rules put the liability on the importer, not the mill. A wrong label is your legal problem, which is why we test rather than trust.
Home-based finishing
Spinning and sozni work happen in homes. We map that chain and state plainly what can and cannot be verified in it.
Clusters we work for this line
Genuine Kashmiri pashmina production is geographically narrow and slow. A supplier quoting Kashmiri pashmina at volume and short lead time is quoting something else.
The other hand-made skills
Send us the sample. We will tell you honestly.
Whether we can source it well in India, what it should cost, and what could go wrong — before you commit to anything.